Out with the New, In with the Old

When deciding where I wanted to study in Israel way back when, I narrowed my options down to Tel Aviv University and Hebrew University.  Both are great institutions with renowned professors and research opportunities, but I am so glad I chose Hebrew University.

Don’t get me wrong; I love Tel Aviv.  It’s on the beach, the weather is slightly warmer, it’s more active (more people exercising and running) and there’s great eateries, shops, and museums.  But Jerusalem can’t compare.   

One of my favorite pictures of Jerusalem.

It is such a unique city in that there are inhabitants from all over the world, and attracting tourists from all over the world, from many different religions.  It is so unique because it’s modern and old at the same time.  Visiting the Old City is definitely a once in a lifetime experience.  

I’m taking a class called, “The Cultural History of Jerusalem” in which the first question asked on my first day was, “What’s so special about Jerusalem?”  I promptly replied that Jerusalem is the birthplace of three religions, satisfied with my answer. It is true.  Jerusalem is the site of the first temple for the Jews, where Jesus was crucified, and where Mohammed rose to heaven.  But thinking back, that question is loaded, and one would not be able to answer in only one class.  

On our first field trip (yes it is a class in which we go places), we went to the City of David.  King David conquered the city in 1006 BCE because he wanted to unite the 12 tribes into one nation.  It wasn’t until his son, King Solomon, took over and expanded the city even more.  The City of David was actually pretty small, and its remains (very well kept because it was built out of limestone) are much smaller than East Jerusalem which encompasses it. 

The wall around the city was built in 19^th century BCE, and then rebuilt in the 9^th century.  Here’s a picture of the wall.  

We also saw the City of David’s water system, Warren’s Shaft.  A fun fact is that the Warren’s Shaft is the most excavated site in Israel.  It was built in the 19^th century BCE with two channels, and then rebuilt in the 8^th century BCE by King Hezekiah to combine the channels into one.  The reasons we now understand the Warren’s Shaft is from the Bible and inscriptions from the 19^th century.

I unfortunately couldn’t take any pictures when we went inside Warren’s Shaft because it was too slippery and steep.  I barely could walk through it normally, but to think that women would venture through it in the pitch black with a jug on their head to get the water and bring it back?  I frankly don’t know how they survived.  

After seeing the City of David, my friends and I traveled into the Old City (ok it was like a five minute walk).  The Old City is one of my favorite places to go to in Jerusalem.  The architecture is brilliant with the beautiful stone buildings.  The Dome of the Rock puts me in a trance with its gold shine.  Just walking through it magically brings me back to the ancient times.   The Old City is divided into 4 quarters, Jewish, Muslim, Christian, and Armenian.  I have only been to the Jewish Quarter, but I would love to explore more of the Old City while I am here. 

Dome of the Rock.

A must-see is the Kotel, or the Western Wall.  The Western Wall is always crowded, and even controversial with the majority of the wall prohibiting women from going near.  A tradition is to write a letter to God and stuff it in the Wall.  Also, when walking back from the wall, one must face it, walking backwards.  My friends and I went into the tunnel that goes underneath the Kotel.  There is also a small shul (temple) where many people pray, the only shul that connects to the Kotel.

 Another great part of the Old City is the market (Nazareth).  Here’s a good place to get gifts, hamsas, and jewish star pendants and of course bargain for them.  

This past Shabbat, I went to Nachlaot, which is not technically the Old City, but definitely feels like it.  Only a 5 minute walk from the shuk (market in Mahane Yehuda) Nachlaot is a religious and quiet town right next to the hustle and bustle of downtown.  It’s a great place to take a leisure walk after a filling Shabbat meal, and just to get a nice view of the city.  

The Old City is definitely special, and visiting it reminds me why I love this sacred and holy land.  

The Old City at dusk.